Last Sunday we attempted a hike on the Siúlóid Bhólais (Bolus Barracks Loop Walk). First, we were interrupted by the Skelligs Chocolate Company on the road to the hike. Well, what choice did we have but to stop? Then second, once on the trail, the rain came down. We are well-prepared for wet weather, but this was more rain than we wanted for this kind of hike. So we headed back to the car, and instead went to the beach at the town of Ballinskelligs, on the southern-facing side of the peninsula. There are lots of microclimates here, and sure enough it was very pleasant, sunny, breezy, just a touch of sprinkles now and then. Getting out of the car we heard nice Irish music (violin and guitar), and saw some booths; it was a nice little Sunday community marketplace with jewelry, pottery, food, clothes, and music. We walked on the beach, and I continued on to the local ruined abbey (apparently every community has one?) - this happens to be the one the monks from Skellig Michael built after they abandoned their island monastery in the 13th century.

Yes, she’s wearing a Golden State Warriors sweatshirt!

Sunset on the shore at our cottage, this is about 9:30 pm

Jellyfish on our evening shore walk 

Monday, we headed to the Gap of Dunloe, only about an hour's drive, but seemingly in another world. Hiking along a narrow roadway the gap unfolds wonderfully. Three levels of lakes, craggy, green, sun-dappled mountains, creeks and streams...a very picturesque and beautiful valley/pass. 

Zoom in - the top of that little winding road was
 as far as I went - 6.2 mile round trip.

Well, another day...another spectacular hike! In item #1 above, I said we attempted a particular hike but called it off due to rain. Today was absolutely great weather for a re-do of the 5-mile Bolus Barracks Loop hike. It takes you out on the headlands for some wonderful, high-elevation views of the coastline - all the while overlooking the Skellig islands. Lots of sheep, hawks and other birds, and we saw two or three hares. At the top of the headlands, it was so quiet, unbelievable - just the ocean, a few birds, and the occasional sheep bleat if we happened to startle one. Perfect picnic near the top.

These double ladders are installed to easily take you
over the fences, and keep you on the rather rough trail

This was our spot for lunch

Wednesday we went to the Beara Peninsula, the lesser-known cousin of the Dingle and the Kerry (Iveragh) peninsulas. A bit off the beaten path, surely, but well worth the drive (2.5 hours to the end of the peninsula from our house - one way). Aside from the gorgeous views while driving, we focused on two things here - the 3,000 year old Derrintaggart stone circle; and a funky cable car (tramway) delivering six people at a time from the mainland to Dursey Island, for some excellent shoreline/bluff hiking. I just never tire of exploring at the edge of the ocean. 

Photo by Eileen, since I am aboard that rickety
contraption that was formerly used to transport sheep!

Time-lapse. It was actually much slower!

Another angle on the Skelligs,
on the drive home
(photo courtesy of Eileen)

After the last few days of hiking (and lengthy driving), we designated Thursday as a rest day (lazy morning, laundry, groceries…). So we only took a short 3.5 mile hike on Valentia Island, out to the furthest reach of the headlands, kind of parallel/opposite the Kerry Cliffs. Great views, overlooking a lot of the areas near Portmagee that we've seen and traversed from sea-level (also, from the top, a nice look at the Dingle Bay to the north). Rewarded ourselves with cones from Valentia Island Farmhouse Ice Cream.

Portmagee to the upper right

View across Dingle Bay. 

The weather has officially shifted to a rainy pattern, and on Friday we took a wet-weather drive to Dingle, which seems to be a nice, albeit touristy, town. Our primary destination was Kingdom Falconry. What a fun experience! Followed by a very nice lunch and then some wandering and shopping - we are, after all, tourists. 

I’m the one in the leather glove, shooting the video with my other hand

No landing on customers with this big guy!

On Sunday we take off for a week or so in Galway.

Now we are on the southwest coast of Ireland, on part of the Ring of Kerry and the Wild Atlantic Way. Our Seaside Cottage (3 km East of Portmagee) is great - overlooking, and with access to, the strait between the mainland and Valentia Island (sound? narrows? no name on google maps for this body of water!). Really an incredible location. Our first evening came with a spectacular sunset.

Today we explored two ring forts (really more like fortified ring households). One was built anywhen from 400 BC to 1200 AD and the other one was determined to have been built in the 9th or 10th century. 

Then we headed for the Kerry Cliffs - the area is preceded by small billboards announcing, "The most magnificent cliffs in Kerry!" And they are indeed magnificent!

A look back toward Portmagee
from the access point to the cliffs

Skellig Michael Islands, which we visited
(see description below)

Torc Waterfall in the Killarney National Park. Unbelievable green! Also enjoyed a little time on the shore of Muckross Lake.

We took a pretty easy drive/hike to the top of (and around) Geokaun Mountain. Some great views. At the bottom of the ‘mountain’ (about 1,000 feet elevation) on the rocky shoreline we visited the tetrapod trackway, a set of footprints from 385 million years ago, left by a one-meter long salamander-like creature. Cool. 

Tetrapod tracks 

Thursday, we went to what may be the crown jewel of our visit in Ireland - Skellig Michael island. An easy one-hour boat ride brought us first to Little Skellig and it’s tens of thousands of nesting birds - the beautiful gannets. Then, on to Greater Skellig, for the early Christian monastery ruins, which include so-called beehive huts, built around the 7th century by a very reclusive group of monks, founded by and dedicated to St. Fionan. (Fun fact: I read that there may have been two St. Fionans: St. Fionan the Squint-Eyed and St. Fionan the Leper. “…Or perhaps St. Fionan had leprosy in his eye.”) 

There is also a small ancient cemetery, walls, other small structures, and of course the hundreds of steps (most of which are original) that must be climbed to get to the top. The whole trip was breathtaking. The puffins were beautiful and hilarious, seemingly nearly tame, and very talkative, in a grumbling, buzzing, moaning kind of way, especially from within their burrow-holes. I was originally concerned that the puffins there would be elusive and difficult to spot… As it turned out, there were many thousands of them, and you could essentially walk right up and look one in the eye. At times we had to watch out for them while going up or down the steps. Lots of pics below.

Great Skellig

Little Skellig

Friday we drove to Shannon, stayed one night in a hotel, then dropped Kelsey at the airport early Saturday morning for her return home to Washington state after spending a wonderful three weeks with us. After dropping her off, Eileen and I went to the wonderful ruin Quin Abbey near Shannon - largely intact and a joy to explore!