Saturday, June 24, 2023

Last Sunday we attempted a hike on the Siúlóid Bhólais (Bolus Barracks Loop Walk). First, we were interrupted by the Skelligs Chocolate Company on the road to the hike. Well, what choice did we have but to stop? Then second, once on the trail, the rain came down. We are well-prepared for wet weather, but this was more rain than we wanted for this kind of hike. So we headed back to the car, and instead went to the beach at the town of Ballinskelligs, on the southern-facing side of the peninsula. There are lots of microclimates here, and sure enough it was very pleasant, sunny, breezy, just a touch of sprinkles now and then. Getting out of the car we heard nice Irish music (violin and guitar), and saw some booths; it was a nice little Sunday community marketplace with jewelry, pottery, food, clothes, and music. We walked on the beach, and I continued on to the local ruined abbey (apparently every community has one?) - this happens to be the one the monks from Skellig Michael built after they abandoned their island monastery in the 13th century.


Yes, she’s wearing a Golden State Warriors sweatshirt!




Sunset on the shore at our cottage, this is about 9:30 pm

Jellyfish on our evening shore walk 

Monday, we headed to the Gap of Dunloe, only about an hour's drive, but seemingly in another world. Hiking along a narrow roadway the gap unfolds wonderfully. Three levels of lakes, craggy, green, sun-dappled mountains, creeks and streams...a very picturesque and beautiful valley/pass. 



Zoom in - the top of that little winding road was
 as far as I went - 6.2 mile round trip
.




Well, another day...another spectacular hike! In item #1 above, I said we attempted a particular hike but called it off due to rain. Today was absolutely great weather for a re-do of the 5-mile Bolus Barracks Loop hike. It takes you out on the headlands for some wonderful, high-elevation views of the coastline - all the while overlooking the Skellig islands. Lots of sheep, hawks and other birds, and we saw two or three hares. At the top of the headlands, it was so quiet, unbelievable - just the ocean, a few birds, and the occasional sheep bleat if we happened to startle one. Perfect picnic near the top.






These double ladders are installed to easily take you
over the fences, and keep you on the rather rough trail

This was our spot for lunch

Wednesday we went to the Beara Peninsula, the lesser-known cousin of the Dingle and the Kerry (Iveragh) peninsulas. A bit off the beaten path, surely, but well worth the drive (2.5 hours to the end of the peninsula from our house - one way). Aside from the gorgeous views while driving, we focused on two things here - the 3,000 year old Derrintaggart stone circle; and a funky cable car (tramway) delivering six people at a time from the mainland to Dursey Island, for some excellent shoreline/bluff hiking. I just never tire of exploring at the edge of the ocean. 



Photo by Eileen, since I am aboard that rickety
contraption that was formerly used to transport sheep!

Time-lapse. It was actually much slower!







Another angle on the Skelligs,
on the drive home
(photo courtesy of Eileen)

After the last few days of hiking (and lengthy driving), we designated Thursday as a rest day (lazy morning, laundry, groceries…). So we only took a short 3.5 mile hike on Valentia Island, out to the furthest reach of the headlands, kind of parallel/opposite the Kerry Cliffs. Great views, overlooking a lot of the areas near Portmagee that we've seen and traversed from sea-level (also, from the top, a nice look at the Dingle Bay to the north). Rewarded ourselves with cones from Valentia Island Farmhouse Ice Cream.





Portmagee to the upper right

View across Dingle Bay. 




The weather has officially shifted to a rainy pattern, and on Friday we took a wet-weather drive to Dingle, which seems to be a nice, albeit touristy, town. Our primary destination was Kingdom Falconry. What a fun experience! Followed by a very nice lunch and then some wandering and shopping - we are, after all, tourists. 

I’m the one in the leather glove, shooting the video with my other hand

No landing on customers with this big guy!





On Sunday we take off for a week or so in Galway.

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